Some days the internet gives up. Some days there just isn't any.
And some days it surprises you at the summit of a mountain where a dozen people hover around the cell tower which advertises free WiFi but doesn't deliver.
We lost Steffen again today. Suddenly, sadly and permanently. While putting my shoes on at 7:30 am, Mats informed me that Steffen was in hospital. Rob, who was sleeping in the next aisle to Steffen, heard what he thought was a loud explosion around midnight and a man yelling in Spanish 'We need help!'. Steffen had rolled off his top bunk and fallen onto the floor. They couldn't wake him and called for an ambulance. There was a bit of consternation when Rob and some fellow pilgrims found the front door to the albergue locked and no staff to open the door for the ambulance personnel. Somehow someone appeared, and the ambulance people managed to get in and wake Steffen and take him to hospital despite Steffen protesting 'I'm fine, I'm fine,' while blood trickled out his left ear. There are five hospitals in Burgos (that we know about). Thankfully Rob had kept calm and organized and had written down the name and address of the hospital that the ambul...
Byron and Melita were quiet as church mice and I woke to the only sound they made - the closing of the door as they left around 6:30. What a great feeling to sleep between sheets. Mats and I are off to a slow start. I let him sleep until 7:30 and we were on the road by 8:15. We can either only go 18k to an albergue 4.5 k outside of Santiago or go the whole way. It's beautiful day if we can walk all the way today we can beat the forecast for rain tomorrow. We decide to push for going the whole way today. Heck, it is only 22.5k. The guidebook shows an elevation profile of mostly downhill yet I keep seeing uphill trails. 'Mats, This is the last hill!' 'Ja. Then it is all downhill.' 'Oh, oh'. I spot a watering trough. I have seen a pattern and pointed it out to Mats- whenever you see a watering trough for feet or animals, especially those where humans can sit and recharge, then you just KNOW there is a hill coming up. I have tested this theory ...
The albergue was a ramshackle house with an entrance patio, an entrance hallway stuffed with a beer fridge, a bench for taking off shoes, a wall of shoes, a corner of walking sticks, three doorways, a podium and people entering and leaving. One door led to a dining room with a massage table. This room, in turn, led to a bedroom with numerous bunks. Another door off the dining room led to a crowded courtyard with a foot bath, drying racks for clothes, a few tables and a tired dog. Another door from the entrance led to the W.C.s another to a crowded bedroom, and a staircase that led up to two more bedrooms with a dozen bunks each, a kitchen and a balcony. The highlight was massages by donation given by a young woman from Brazil. She asked where I wanted her to focus. 'Back?' ' No. Legs and feet.' She looked at my feet and with raised eyebrows 'I cannot do your feet. They are not clean.' And this was after my shower! She told me I had rocks ...
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